My housemate is going to be disappointed. I told him that I’d try to bring him back an authentic Moroccan tajine, but it’s not going to happen. Firstly, I can’t see a way to get it back to Australia in tact, but more importantly, I learnt the secret of making a quality tajine… Use a… Continue reading The secret of Tajine
Month: January 2009
Barefoot in the sand
The first day in the desert was rather easy – just a couple of hours walking – but I took the opportunity to ride a camel. Mohammed told me that it’s not just a tourist gimick. Nomad children will ride the camels until they’re big enough to keep up on foot. I can see why… Continue reading Barefoot in the sand
Profile – Aziz
Aziz is too small to join the games of soccer played all down the beach in El Jadida, but he’s not going to be left out. He takes his younger brother to kick a ball on the dry sand above the games. The 4 year old is delighted at being included with Aziz and rushes… Continue reading Profile – Aziz
Profile – Mohammed
Mohammed was the most likeable of the Moroccans I met. He gave his name as something different, but less memorable than the name Hucein called him. Mohammed cooked our food for us at the auberge in Zagora and lead the camel safari. He was also the most humble of the family, if family he was.… Continue reading Profile – Mohammed
Profile – Hassan
Hassan owns the Auberge Chez Hassan 4km north of Zagora and appears to own the family safari business as well. He’s a natural salesman and quickly talked us into paying 50% too much for our camel trek and too much for our meals at the hotel. He has a large personality and a turban to… Continue reading Profile – Hassan
Profile – Hucein
Hucein joined our bus at Agdz and sat down next to Pieter, who I’d met earlier that day on another bus from Marakesh to Ouarzazarte. He was very friendly and quick to invite us to stay at his family’s auberge, where we could camp for only 30 dirhum (A$6) per night. Hucein is not a… Continue reading Profile – Hucein
Yes means No
Whereas the Japanese will avoid saying no by saying ‘maybe,’ the Moroccans seem to avoid it by saying ‘yes’ and finding a way to make it true. This particularly applies to anything that will get you to do something you otherwise wouldn’t do or go somewhere you otherwise wouldn’t go. Examples: “So you’ll take us… Continue reading Yes means No
Peace at last
The locals in El Jadida (the New) are much more relaxed than in the east. This is meant to be a holiday destination for Moroccans rather than tourists, which is why I chose to come here, and the locals are content to let me come to them rather than harrassing me as I walk past… Continue reading Peace at last
Linguists
I get more practise at speaking French here than I ever did in France. Morocco was once a French colony and much of the population still speaks French. They also give my Spanish a workout and even my Japanese. Some speak German and just about every other language you care to try. Usually only a… Continue reading Linguists
Mosques
Every city, town and village in Morocco has at least one mosque and as long as there’s one person still living there, it’s the best maintained building in town. Unlike the domed structures I was expecting, Moroccan mosques comprise a rectangular courtyard (presumably with the walls aligned with the cardinal directions) and a tall square… Continue reading Mosques